{"id":6653,"date":"2024-12-02T12:00:46","date_gmt":"2024-12-02T12:00:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/?p=6653"},"modified":"2024-12-27T19:56:49","modified_gmt":"2024-12-27T19:56:49","slug":"publico-no-barreiro-um-balcao-para-devorar-toda-a-regiao","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/publico-no-barreiro-um-balcao-para-devorar-toda-a-regiao\/","title":{"rendered":"In Barreiro, a counter to devour the whole region"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Voraz opened less than a year ago and has already made quite a buzz. The credit goes to chefs Tiago Santos and Bruno Xavier, who are determined to make Barreiro a hub for all the best the region has to offer.<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It fell like a meteorite. In a city that is hardly the first destination that comes to mind when thinking about gastronomy, two chefs from the Margem Sul, Tiago Santos and Bruno Xavier, chose to see the glass half full: where there was no fine dining restaurant, they saw an opportunity to start something with transformative potential.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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More than just a restaurant, Voraz is a community-driven project, engaging in dialogue with producers, customers, and the wider local dining scene.<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Voraz is not just one restaurant \u2013 it\u2019s actually four. Four counters at the 1.\u00ba de Maio Market in the heart of Barreiro, right amidst the fruit, vegetable, and fish stalls. After all, the product is the star here \u2013 and this is no tired chef\u2019s clich\u00e9. More than just a restaurant, Voraz is a place-rooted project, engaging in dialogue with producers, customers, and the wider local dining community.<\/p>

Next to one of the building\u2019s entrances is the R\u00fbto Izakaya counter, focused on Asian cuisines, with Japanese cuisine taking center stage. It already reveals much about what Voraz stands for. \u201cSalmon? We don\u2019t have that,\u201d Tiago Santos immediately points out. \u201cBut sometimes we do have salmon trout.\u201d And it\u2019s not just a preference for Portuguese fish\u2014they go as far as sourcing local fish from the Tagus estuary. Tiago proudly shows a mullet caught from the estuary\u2019s depths (not to be confused with the ones seen in shoals near the surface), saying, \u201cLook at the beauty of this fillet.\u201d<\/p>

Under the umbrella of sustainability, they focus on invasive species\u2014voracious fish like corvinata, which in the brackish waters of the Mar da Palha can exceed 20 kilos, and silurus catfish, caught upstream and sometimes larger than an adult man. In the hands of Chef Douglas Prates, these species take the form of maki, sashimi, and nigiri, alongside sardines, horse mackerel, and other coastal fish. The rice? It comes from Lez\u00edria. \u201cThe idea was to think: what would a Japanese sushi chef do if they came to live in Barreiro?\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Rule: \"Whatever we decide to do.\"<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The spirit remains the same across the other counters, clustered in the center of the market hall. One is dedicated to pastries, where desserts are made; another is a bar called Roastelier, because it\u2019s where the coffee roasting happens; and Raiz, which is the heart of the whole venture. Here, the kitchen\u2019s rule is to have no rules. \u201cIt\u2019s whatever we decide to do,\u201d sums up Tiago.<\/p>

Within seasonal availability and from local producers \u2013 the zero-kilometer philosophy sets the priority \u2013 but without forcing what doesn\u2019t exist. \u201cIf I have a better product from another region, I won\u2019t be \u2018demagogic\u2019,\u201d admits Tiago, as he presents the couvert, which includes olive oil from Beira Baixa, butter from the Azores, and bread from Casal do Marco (Seixal).<\/p>

There are also vegetarian dishes, not just as a mere \u201coption\u201d to satisfy customers with dietary restrictions, but as full-fledged plates, designed to satisfy even omnivores without any complaints about something missing.<\/p>

The beetroot Wellington is one such example, made with a variety of beetroot cultivated by a producer from Pinhal Novo \u201cin airy soil,\u201d resulting in a pulp that is softer and meatier, less dense, with a color and texture that surprise at the first bite. Alongside the star tuber, the dish is completed with Ortodoxo goat cheese from Arr\u00e1bida, a vegetable demi-glace, truffled mashed potatoes, and a Burgundy-style sauce made from Castel\u00e3o wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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A map of the region in the form of a wine list<\/h6>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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We hadn\u2019t yet talked about the wines. They were saved for last, for the good reason that it is one of Voraz\u2019s strong points\u2014among many others. The wine list is probably the best-stocked in the Set\u00fabal Peninsula region. It features 64 labels from 17 producers, all available by the glass. Small producers, it should be emphasized, some very small indeed.\n\u201cI have customers who, when they see the list, say, \u2018But I don\u2019t know any of these!\u2019\u201d Tiago says. \u201cI tell them, \u2018That\u2019s the point\u2014discovering.\u2019\u201d<\/p>

And there are also, of course, wines from Barreiro. That\u2019s right, from Barreiro, produced in Palhais, about five kilometers from here, by the dean of winemaking, Virg\u00edlio Loureiro. It\u2019s hard to forget the \u201ccurtimenta\u201d white wine, one hundred percent fern\u00e3o pires, which shows the immense path still to be explored in the world of wines. Fortunately, there is a long list to discover by the glass, at the Voraz bar.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Faced with a wine list that brings together a significant sample of small producers from the Set\u00fabal Peninsula region, with over sixty references all available by the glass, anyone even mildly interested in wine will feel like a child from the 1980s in front of a new Ol\u00e1 ice cream poster.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t

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See Article Here<\/span> <\/a><\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n Back<\/span>\n <\/a>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Voraz opened less than a year ago and has already made quite a buzz. The credit goes to chefs Tiago Santos and Bruno Xavier, who are determined to make Barreiro a hub for all the best the region has to offer.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7192,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[72],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6653","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-imprensa"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6653","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6653"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6653\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7192"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6653"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6653"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/voraz.pt\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6653"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}